The FIRST Spring Steel Slot Drag Car Chassis ever made!

Set the Pro-Stock Record in its First Race and is STILL SETTING THE STANDARD.

This chassis has been designed for the Blown Doorslammer or Pro-Stock class and all classes that use a doorslammer type body with a cobalt strap motor at a minimum weight of 90 grams. Our chassis has floating pans to make the weight instead of lead weights added as ballast because this class of car needs to have a means of absorbing the shock of the launch. The motor box has been designed for Group 7 or 27 Strap Type Cobalt Motors and when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear meshes are optimum. The Choice of The Fast Crowd!

Classes Recommended for: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, and Brackets

CHOOSING THE PROPER CHASSIS CONFIGURATION: SDRA Pro Stock cars must weight 90 grams, and to make weight you will usually need to include the pans that come with the chassis. They may be left in place attached to the chassis or cut loose and hinged, if desired. Body mounts can also be made static or hinged. If floating body mounts are desired, a floating body mount kit intended for road race cars can be used. To hinge the pans, use .032 wire and 1/16" brass square tubing, as shown.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the "floating" assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

PAN MOUNTING: The pan hinges are made of .032 piano wire bent into an "L" shape and inserted into lengths of 1/16" brass square tubing. After the parts are bent, use the moto-tool to deburr the ends of the wire, then insert into the brass tube. Solder the brass tube to the front chassis pad, then solder the .032 wire into the slot in the pan. The rear of the pan hangs from the rear crossbar of the body mount, and is attached by small "L" shaped hangers, or a "U" that fits across between the pans.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-142 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, Comp Eliminator, And Brackets, Recommended Bodies: DRS-503 Camaro, DRS-513 Firebird (For P/S) DRS-515 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray (Can Be Used In Other Classes), Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box TubingCHOOSING THE PROPER CHASSIS CONFIGURATION: SDRA Pro Stock cars must weight 90 grams, and to make weight you will usually need to include the pans that come with the chassis. They may be left in place attached to the chassis or cut loose and hinged, if desired. Body mounts can also be made static or hinged. If floating body mounts are desired, a floating body mount kit intended for road race cars can be used. To hinge the pans, use .032 wire and 1/16" brass square tubing, as shown.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the "floating" assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

PAN MOUNTING: The pan hinges are made of .032 piano wire bent into an "L" shape and inserted into lengths of 1/16" brass square tubing. After the parts are bent, use the moto-tool to deburr the ends of the wire, then insert into the brass tube. Solder the brass tube to the front chassis pad, then solder the .032 wire into the slot in the pan. The rear of the pan hangs from the rear crossbar of the body mount, and is attached by small "L" shaped hangers, or a "U" that fits across between the pans.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-142 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, Comp Eliminator, And Brackets, Recommended Bodies: DRS-503 Camaro, DRS-513 Firebird (For P/S) DRS-515 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray (Can Be Used In Other Classes), Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing

The Second Spring Steel Slot Drag Car Chassis ever made!

This chassis has been designed for the Factory-Modified, Hard Body Classes, Pro-Modified, Top Gun and Top-Sportsman classes. These classes are based on c-can type group 12 and 20 motors. The motor box has been designed for c-can type motors and when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear mesh are optimum. We also have a DRS-111 motor tab available separately which allows the motor to be mounted with screws, not solder. A longer wheelbase equals a smoother, more consistent car. Especially on less than optimum tracks!

Classes Recommended for: Factory Modified, Factory Experimental, Super Stock, Top-Gun, Top Sportsman, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, Quick 16, and Brackets.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the "floating" assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-142 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: Factory Modified, Factory Experimental, Super Stock, Top-Gun, Top Sportsman, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, Quick 16, And Brackets. Recommended Bodies: DRS-503 Camaro, DRS-513 Firebird (For F/M) DRS-515 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray

Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing.

The Fifth Spring Steel Slot Drag Car Chassis ever made!

Set the A/FC Record in its First Race and is STILL SETTING THE STANDARD.

This chassis has been designed for the A/FC or BB/FC funny car class. The A/FC class uses a group 20 motor with a minimum weight limit of 90 grams. The BB/FC class uses a group 12 motor with a minimum weight limit of 90 grams.

Classes Recommended for: A/FC, BB/FC, E/FC, Super Comp, Quick 16, And Brackets.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the "floating" assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-149 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: A/FC, E/FC, Quick 16, And Brackets. Recommended Bodies: Or DRS-511 Vette F/C, DRS-536 Camaro F/C, DRS-537 HDF Camaro F/C.

Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-149 Drilled Or DRS-125 Undrilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing.

This chassis has been designed for the Dragbike enthusiast to use in all Dragbike classes. These are some of the most fun classes in slot drag racing. Where you can compete in the top classes without the large expense usually associated with high-end racing. This chassis is designed with a belt drive system and comes complete with a specific front and rear wheel, the drive pulley for the motor, and also the drive belt. Our rear wheel has the drive pulley built into the rear hub and comes with the rubber already mounted to the rim. The kit and assembled chassis will come with all the parts necessary to build your Dragbike that are not readily available in the slot car industry. We do recommend that you do use bearing's for the 1/8" rear axle and motor (at least on the drive side) to prevent wear and subsequent axle wobble that could hurt performance. Our unique design does not really need a body, just a flat piece of lexan, or thin aluminum to make the top of the gas tank, seat, and rear fender. Try the Drag Racing Specialties “blueprinted” c-can motors for the best performance! Classes Recommended for: Dragbike. Recommended Bodies: DRS-504 Drag Bike Shell. We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis., DRS-115* Rear Wheel, DRS-116* Drive Belt, DRS-117* Motor Pulley, DRS-118* Front Wheel, DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel, DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-104 1/8 Bearings or DRS-152 1/8 Oilites, DRS-154 1/8 Solid Axle, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S .063 Wire, *Parts are included in kit. They are also available separately.

The first Low Priced Drag Chassis on the Market

It features an inline motor mount, 1/8” axle, and most important a price that is lower than most of the wire chassis on the market and not much more than the stamped steel chassis. The “Bracket Master” is built from spring steel, and these chassis feature most of the things that are on our pro chassis like pillowblocks, body mounting provisions, and integral wheelie bars.

Classes Recommended For: Factory Modified, Factory Experimental, Super Stock, Top-Gun, Top Sportsman, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, Pro Mod, Quick 16, And Brackets. Recommended Bodies: DRS-506 53 Studebaker, DRS-513 Firebird, DRS-516 Stingray, DRS-533 Camaro, DRS-539 Cavalier, DRS-543 Cougar, DRS-547 Stealth. Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire and Sonic Gears.

DRS-61 VW Chassis Kit

DRS-SW01 Chassis

We know this class will be popular and bring to you a new chassis designed for this type of racing. We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-549 Sonoma Truck Body, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (2 required), DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, K&S 1/16 Round Brass Tubing

DRS-SW11 "Econo-Scale" Dragster Chassis

This chassis is one of the lightest, and the easiest to assemble spring steel dragster chassis on the market. Most important of all this chassis was designed by the company that produces chassis for drag racing!! Our chassis features very few solder joints and all unnecessary parts have been eliminated to give you a lightweight winning chassis that does not run the risk of having one of the many solder joints come loose at the worst possible time, in the final round with sixty seconds to stage!!

Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis Classes Recommended For: A/FD Class, Quick 16, And Brackets. Recommended Bodies: DRS-538 2002 True Scale Dragster Body, DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (5 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire

Fits: Revell Pontiac Trans Am Pro Stock, Olds Pro Stock, Revell '83 and Monogram '86 T-Bird Pro Stock kits.

We've heard your requests for a real Pro Type Inline Chassis for Hardbody racing, and the DRS SW13 is one of several chassis we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of Hardbody racing makes use of both normal and large, wide, "scale" tires on older, "nostalgia"-style bodies.

As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal of body tuck-under or curved sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components. With the larger tires, an inline chassis is usually a necessity! Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the construction of inline chassis. The popular choice has been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a provision for a screw in motor.

This is a stamped and folded piece that can have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down the drag strip) and most importantly, the alignment of the motor and axle! When the motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mounted at the same height.

The first advantage of the DRS SW13 solution is the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body to be mounted at three points: straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose with two different locations. Remove the pair of side frame horns that are not needed. It also has an adjustable front axle mount, which allows the use of a incredibly wide range of bodies, from muscle car favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it will also work equally well with those lexan bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup.

The DRS-SW13 chassis features a sturdy, precision .050" steel Motor Tab to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured, our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly for maximum performance. You will notice that the motor tab has provisions for either horizontal or vertical motor mounting. It also will take our new four screw motor mounting system that we developed for our new Gen III Motors, again either horizontal or vertical. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No more adapters, and Ball Bearings are now easy to use! The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.